Wednesday, December 21, 2005











Further images from Herat that I took on my drive around this morning.
  1. Gazar-Gah, shrine of Khoja Abullahi Ansari, Sufi mystic saint from medieval times, home to many cats (of whom he was fond), and visited by women who hope contact with his tomb will make them pregnant. Popular place for picnics as well. This is also where Sufis meet for zikr on thursday evenings.
  2. Ismael Khan's son's grave with two friends who were killed alongside him. Ismael Khan was once effective 'king' of Herat, and the people still talk about him with fond memories. For sure, he wasn't all good, but Herat's prosperity and good condition (excellent roads, street lighting etc) are to no small extent due to him.
  3. same as 2
  4. Grave of the son of my driver. Farvar, age 5. Killed 7 months ago.
  5. New 5* hotel just opened in Herat last week. Driver and I were refused entry because apparently American special forces soldiers had taken up residence there and "absolutely nobody" is to be allowed in. Great for business I'm sure...
  6. View of Herat city from Gazar-Gah
  7. Ghar Darwisham: old sufi meeting room, no longer used. (all subsequent photos also of this place). To get there you have to walk a couple of kilometres up a hill. Relatively isolated. Really dark inside. Atmospheric place.

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